In an age the place stainless-steel watches are mass-produced by stainless-steel machines, impartial watchhouse Lang & Heyne is a refreshing anomaly. Their secret? Crafting each watch by hand. German watchmaker Jens Schneider, below the management of CEO Alexander Gutierrez, is steadfast of their dedication to conventional craftsmanship and classic design.
However what does it take to marry the outdated with the brand new; to stability heritage with innovation? We sit with Gutierrez and Schneider to delve into the guts of Lang & Heyne, the challenges of carving out an identification in a crowded market and the sheer artistry behind every timepiece.
Who’s Lange & Heyne for?
ALEXANDER GUTIERREZ: You might be in our goal group in case you are somebody who appreciates nice craftsmanship, whether or not it’s handmade vehicles like Morgan or Pagani, or gourmand meals and nice eating. Our clients are connoisseurs who’re settled, not show-offs. They cherish what they personal for themselves. In case you take pleasure in admiring the motion of a watch and winding it your self, you possibly can be certainly one of our targets.
What have been a number of the most important challenges you’ve confronted as CEO, and the way have you ever overcome them?
ALEXANDER: The most important problem has been defining the DNA of Lang & Heyne, a comparatively younger model at simply 21 years outdated. In contrast to established manufacturers, we don’t have an extended historical past or celeb endorsements to lean on. As a substitute, our focus is on the product itself, emphasising high-end craftsmanship and in-house manufacturing. Our Saxonian heritage performs a vital position, and we honour it by naming our watches after Saxonian kings, moderately than utilizing reference numbers. Balancing conventional watchmaking with up to date approaches, like utilizing each handcrafting and fashionable equipment, has been key. Bringing all that collectively, and in the long run, having a profitable firm, is the primary problem, I’d say.
Given the prevalence of latest watch designs, why has Lang & Heyne continued its dedication to classic design components?
ALEXANDER: We need to preserve our Saxonian roots and heritage, which is why we proceed with classic design components. Our method is extra about class and custom moderately than flashy, sophisticated options. We concentrate on craftsmanship, particularly the inventive work finished by hand, which is central to our model’s identification. This mix of classic design with a up to date method is what units us aside. For instance, the Honest Platinum Jubilee Version showcases this mix by incorporating fashionable supplies like ceramic whereas retaining a traditional aesthetic.
What are the present traits within the luxurious watch market, and the way is Lang & Heyne positioning itself to remain forward?
ALEXANDER: The present development within the luxurious watch market is a shift in direction of impartial watchmakers and distinctive, area of interest merchandise. Don’t get me mistaken, I don’t need to say massive manufacturers should not vital anymore, however collectors and fanatics are more and more searching for one thing totally different and particular. At Lange & Heyne, we concentrate on artisan craftsmanship and customisation, permitting clients to personalise particulars like arms, dial colors, and supplies. This personalised method units us other than bigger manufacturers that usually can’t provide such bespoke choices. By catering to those area of interest calls for, Lange & Heyne is turning into a big participant within the impartial sector.
The Watchmaker
Are you able to stroll us by way of your inventive course of when designing a brand new watch?
JENS SCHNEIDER: A Lang & Heyne watch needs to be one you need to use day by day. We don’t need to make watches that simply sit in a cabinet. It needs to be simple to learn the time and easy to wind. That’s the place to begin for me. Then I take into consideration the watch’s character. The subsequent step is to assemble info from my thoughts—issues I’ve seen in historic watches and technical options—and mix them with my very own concepts. You may’t invent a totally new watch; it’s about creating new combos of recognized components from the previous with new expertise or supplies.
Subsequent, I create a easy sketch of the gear prepare. It’s simply circles, however the dimensions of the circles decide the proper place of the arms on the dial. The ultimate step is to design the watch in 3D on the pc. This isn’t simple as a result of you need to think about how all of the components match collectively. In case you change one half, you need to take into consideration the way it impacts the others. That is the method we observe.
How do you stability aesthetics with performance when designing a brand new watch?
JENS: A watch that appears good however has no perform isn’t actually aesthetic. The perform is what issues. For instance, a really small stability wheel within the nook isn’t interesting as a result of it doesn’t perform nicely. It’s all concerning the mixture: the perform ought to lead, and the aesthetics ought to serve the perform
How do you combine fashionable expertise with conventional watchmaking methods?
JENS: You must be educated about supplies. For example, utilizing a diamond instrument requires a mixture of expert craftsmanship and fashionable supplies. We additionally use fashionable equipment. At this time, I design utilizing Laptop Numerical Management (CNC) applications and machines to create the uncooked components. For instance, the arms of the Louis watch have a conventional form, which we obtain by way of hand engraving after the uncooked materials is reduce with a laser.
How do you two collaborate on a challenge from idea to completion?
JENS: We normally begin with a brainstorming session, whether or not it’s an thought from a buyer, a particular request, or an inside idea. We focus on the feasibility of the concept, contemplating each inventive and sensible points as a result of a watchmaker has many concepts, however you can not realise each thought. Now we have to think about the financial or capability constraints, so we prioritise based mostly on significance and useful resource availability.
ALEXANDER: We regularly work on customized initiatives, whether or not for a big order from a bunch like SHH or a single piece for a person buyer. The method includes detailed discussions about design, issues, and manufacturing logistics. For example, when Honest Haute Horlogerie requests a selected variety of watches, we assess our skill to satisfy that quantity and the precise necessities. All through the challenge, there’s fixed communication to refine the design and guarantee it aligns with each our capabilities and the shopper’s expectations. For instance, the success of earlier fashions like the primary and second Georg gave us confidence within the design’s attraction and guided the challenge from idea to completion.
This text was first seen on Esquire.Sg
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