Ulla Johnson is one in all New York style’s best feminine colorists, so it’s solely pure that she would really feel an affinity to the late nice artist Lee Krasner, one of many few feminine painters to be related to the Summary Expressionist motion.
On Sunday, Johnson introduced Krasner’s work to the runway as prints in her assortment, a feat that was two years within the making. “They’ve by no means labored in any collaborative capability,” she stated of the artist’s basis. “So it was an actual honor to work with three of her items…throughout a time she was utilizing very fiery colour.”
Krasner’s energetic pink and inexperienced brushstrokes animated a number of appears, together with a silky bias-cut costume and a sleeveless cotton one with a cascading entrance ruffle, worn over color-soaked pants. (A pattern to look at for spring is clothes over pants.)
Letting the Krasner prints shine, the remainder of the gathering targeted on solids, with versatile cargo vests, skirts and different utility items enlivened with hand-embroidered flower sequin gildings, contrasted with diaphanous chiffons and lacy lingerie slips.
The opposite large information was Johnson’s official launch of menswear, which performed out in outsized T-shirts in vivid hues or edged in lace, embellished chiffon or Krasner print shirts, cargo pants and creased denim.
“Ladies get put in menswear on a regular basis,” the designer noticed, noting that she flipped the script. “These weren’t appears that have been reduce for males, they have been a part of our [women’s] ready-to-wear. However then the lads got here in and seemed unbelievable and it felt so pure. This false binary between menswear and womenswear appears fairly outdated.”
The designer stated she plans to carve out house in her shops for the class. “We’ve so many males in our orbit that love colour and prints…it’s thrilling for me to decorate them.”